Mark Nolting in Mozambique, Zambia, Victoria Falls and Botswana

Gorongosa – Mozambique

I departed on my inter-Africa scheduled flight from Johannesburg to Beira, Mozambique. On arrival you connect with a scheduled SafariAir charter flight to Gorongosa National Park. And then an onward gentle one hour game drive from the park gate to Explore Gorongosa.

The Carr Foundation, a U.S. not-for-profit organization, has teamed with the Government of Mozambique to protect and restore the ecosystem of Gorongosa National Park and to develop an ecotourism industry to benefit local communities.

During my visit I stayed at both the Wild Camp and Muzimu Camp (operate May-October) and visited the Headquarter for the Carr Foundation.

According to National Geographic, “Gorongosa is home to the greatest wildlife restoration in history’. In 2008, the Gorongosa Restoration Project was created to rewild the park as 90% of the big mammals had been killed during regional conflict, and to support the local communities surrounding it. The wildlife has come back strong and the project has built dozens of primary and pre-primary schools and provides lunches for thousands of students. Farmers receive assistance with honey production and coffee growing being great successes.

In addition to day and night game drives where vehicles can drive off road, escorted walks with professional armed guides, canoeing and boating when water levels permitting. Additional activities include visiting the Pangolin Rehabilitation center, the paleontological sites, and a nearby pre-primary and primary school.

This is a truly beautiful national park with large floodplains (usually dry July- November) with yellow fever trees, Ilala palms, baobab trees, riverine forests, swamps, a large lake and rivers. When water levels are high enough (usually April to August) motor boating in a ten-seater boat. Normally April to June about a third of the reserve is flooded, and August to November the flood has receded and there are massive open dry floodplains. The park is not fenced.

We saw lions on many game drives and wild dogs twice, over a dozen civets and nearly as many seral, elephant, nyala, greater kudu, bushbuck, reedbuck, oribi, water mongoose, slender mongoose, spotted eagle owl, about 20 ground hornbills and lots of other wildlife. Common waterbuck are everywhere and seem to outnumber all the other antelope combined.

There are no leopard or cheetah and few buffalo and hyena which should improve over time. Combining this reserve with one or more others that have an abundance of those species would be best.

There are many masters and PhD researchers at main camp that will occasionally give presentations to guests.

I feel the park is a good candidate for travelers who have been on Safari before and are looking for something off the beaten path with some interesting additional activities.

Pangolin rehabilitation center visit.

Hard to hold! A truly amazing animal. They have rehabilitated over 100 into the park and they are occasionally seen on walks or game drives. They take the pangolins into the bush where there are ants, dig up areas for them and let them feed as part of the rehabilitation process.

Boat to cross the river to the local village and primary school

Mark with Greg Carr (third from the left) who has given over $200 million towards the restocking and rehabilitation of Gorongosa, and Andrew Steel who runs Jeff Bezos’s Philanthropic Foundation.

Mark with Greg at one of the 6 pre-primary schools they have built. They have also built dozens of primary schools on the border of the park. The Pre-Primary school was well funded with tables, chairs, workbooks and a quite tasty lunch.

South Luangwa and Lower Zambezi, Zambia

My arrival in Zambia coincided with spending time with old Zambia friends, and also our AAC clients out on safari! Late August and September brought the warmer weather and some windy days that cleared the skies. An unexpected but welcome cold front followed the wind and crisp mornings have kicked off with clear light basking the banks of the Luangwa and Mwaleshi rivers at sunrise. Out in the bush lagoons have started to dry up, sun bathing turns to mud bathing, fishing parties swarm remaining oxbow lagoons and predators lie in wait by the river for easy opportunities.

John and Carol Coppinger at Tafika Camp – AAC has been working with them for over 35 years. My guide Alex at Puku Ridge.

Game viewing was impressive with the usual waterbucks, zebra, Thornicroft’s giraffe and elephants keeping us entertained. The exclusive Kawere hide was very busy.

Dinner with clients Andre. Kathy, Ryan and Alex at Puku Ridge. My other client Nancy Gubman and guide Brent Harris at Mwaleshi in North Luangwa. Brent is one of the best guides I have been out with and is based at Mwaleshi for the season. As it heats up the Mwaleshi River is the perfect spot to cool off. The Takwela team are now often boating across the Luangwa to set up a lunch in the Mwaleshi River so guests can enjoy the cool water and a tasty meal at the same time.

Chiawa Camp and Old Mondoro are located in the middle of prime wildlife and habitat zones of the Lower Zambezi National Park, so we did not have to travel far to see wildlife. What’s more, often wildlife made their way into camp to visit us, providing out-of-this-world game sightings. Wildlife we spotted included elephant, lion, leopard, buffalo, waterbuck, hippos and crocodiles. It was very dry this winter and we could see the knock on effects of El Nino weather patterns.

Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe

The break in Victoria Falls allowed some recharging of the batteries and getting re-acquainted with old friends and do many site inspections of hotels, camps and Lodges. And of course did meet up with our two wonderful touring hostess’s Precious and Cynthia on the Vic Falls Hotel verandah for lunch! We are excited that Roddy Meiring was announced as the new manager of the Victoria Falls Hotel to take it to new heights in the future.

Selinda Camp and Duba Plains, Okavango Delta

Dereck Joubert’s journey with his wife and the co-founder of Great Plains Conservation, Beverly Joubert, started in Botswana. They initially settled in the private Selinda Reserve before ending up in the private Duba Concession. I was lucky to visit both of these camps at the prime season time.

Botswana is famous for its incredible wildlife, and as this has been a very dry year the sightings were off the charts! The lion pride, as seen in the film “Birth of Pride” were feasting on a hippo carcass during my stay at Selinda. The camp offers a luxurious safari experience in this amazing private concession.

A beautiful Botswana mother leopard who has a young 2 year old male leopard cub.

Boat safaris have been cancelled at Selinda until further notice…!!

I trip ended off with a highlight to be staying at Duba Plains! And was met by a dazzle of zebra! This place restores your spirit and offers a perfect combination experience with Selinda. “A safari can be personal and social; it can be about yourself whilst understanding broader conservation issues. Duba Plains is all those things.” – Dereck Joubert.